LOCAL HEROES
Thanks to the likes of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, free-range, organic farming has become synonymous with the movement for ethically sourced and sustainable food. But for Ian and Denise Bell, whose Dorset farm is a haven for, among other animals, cows, sheep and pigs, that's not enough.
The Bells are among a select breed of farmers who produce biodynamic meat. But what exactly is a biodynamic cow? "Our cows not only graze simply on grass in summer and hay in winter but are also given absolutely no pharmaceutical medicines or chemicals," Ian explains. "We have vets who make diagnoses and then we give the animals homeopathic remedies for everything from preventing worms to curing pneumonia. Scientists call it hocus-pocus, but it's extremely effective."
The Bells, who have been farming biodynamically for 12 years, also allow their calves to reach full maturity – usually five years – before they slaughter them. In the commercial world, it can be as low as 16 months. The Bells' cows are also allowed to stay together until the calves have weaned from their mothers.
The whole process, Ian says, produces cows that are "playful, bright-eyed and, above all, resilient" and meat that is "pure and unsullied". Ideal for Mark Hix's braised shin of beef with dumplings, which, he says, is "perfect if you have friends round over Christmas".
Read more here
CHEFS VISIT OUR FARM
(Excerpts from an independant article it can be read in full here)
Greeted by Denise and Ian, Turpin the yapping Jack Russell, we were anxious to see for ourselves why Heritage Prime meat has built up something of a cult status among those who care about how food is produced.
In the case of livestock, biodynamic farming is about the closest you can get to giving animals their most natural life cycle while still actually rearing meat for the table. It's based on respect for the animals' lives as well as the environment in which they live. The biodynamic farmer operates free of synthesised fertilisers, man-made feeds, pharmaceutical treatments or anything else that interferes with the balance of the food chain. As a result, the vitality of the animals is passed on to the consumer via the quality and flavour of their meat - or so the theory goes.
There is logic to the theory. Biodynamic practice means animals are allowed to mature much more slowly than commercially reared livestock. Heritage Prime lambs, for instance are kept until they're one year old (officially, becoming hogget) rather than being slaughtered within a matter of months; the Bells' Tamworth pigs enjoy life for two years as opposed to the more usual five months they get under intensive farming conditions, and chickens live to the ripe old age of 18 months.
All medicines are homeopathic, a movement that has had a hard enough time being accepted for use on humans, let alone farm animals.
But Ian is adamant the approach has tangible, concrete advantages. "Biodynamics is about building the resilience of the whole farm, including the wildlife," he says. "We had a lot of disease here in this region, but whereas other farmers in the vale have to spend lots of money on treatments we don't have any problems." That resilience, he argues, is then passed on to humans. "It's amazing to see the difference in land that's been biodynamically farmed for 10 years - you can actually look at the grass and see how much greener it is," agrees Locatelli.
And what about flavour? We didn't get to taste the chicken (things are killed here when they're ready, not when you order them!), so we had to take Locatelli's endorsement on trust. "I have customers who phone to check when the chicken is on the menu, then book for two evenings once they know when it's available," he reveals.
It must be pointed out that for Denise and Ian, achieving the best taste for their produce is not an end in itself. They farm animals biodynamically because they truly believe that humans must rediscover a respect for animals and stop squeezing the earth dry of its last remaining resources. The fact that rearing animals slowly and naturally delivers the by-product of exceptional flavour is a bonus.
Read the chef's full experience on our farm here
BIODYNAMIC FOOD FORTNIGHT
"A happy pig makes a better crackling" declared Michel Roux Jr speaking in Borough Market's boardroom. "It's so true."
Michel Roux Jr speaking in Borough Market's boardroom
Biodynamic agriculture was pioneered by Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925) and Michel Roux said that he too believed in a proper use of seasonality and a recognition of the importance of the moon and solar system.
"My late father-in-law was a farmer and he always used to plant his vegetables at certain times of the year. My late grandfather was a hairdresser and he used to swear that the best time to cut hair was after a full moon as the hair would grow back stronger. That is wacky.
"But Biodynamic is about respect, respect for land and respect for the animals. My father reared rabbits and pigeons for the table and I remember fondly him looking after them and kissing and cuddling them.
"Biodynamic is a more expensive way of producing food at the moment. But I genuinely feel good after eating it. Money should not be the object as it is the quality that matters. Soon we will soon be embracing biodynamics. Biodynamics will no longer be a wacky term. If you think about organics fifteen years ago it was very wacky. Biodynamics is the way forward."
Read the full article here
FACTS
Our sheep are hogget's, meaning they have enjoyed two seasons grazing rather than just one, and go to slaughter over 18 months of age rather than the typical 4 months of conventional farms.
As a very rare treat ask about our mutton availablity.
This allows us to transport only a few animals at a time, and ensure a stress free slaughter for our animals.
Our animals roam acres of fertile, herb rich land. This is a mixed farm with four species, where cattle and sheep cross graze over several fields in harmony. This gives great conservation benefits.
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